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Turkisk rödfärgning - tolkning av historiska färgrecept

Journal article
Authors Anneli Palmsköld
Anna Fabler
Published in RIG: Kulturhistorisk tidskrift
Issue 2-3
Pages 123-142
ISSN 0035-5267
Publication year 2018
Published at Department of Conservation
Pages 123-142
Language sv
Keywords växtfärgning, naturlig färgning, färgframställning, krapp, alizarin, bomull, hantverksvetenskap, kulturhantverk, hantverk, hantverksprocedurer
Subject categories Technology and culture, Ethnology

Abstract

Turkey Red dyeing - An interpretation of historical dye recipies This article deals with three recipes from the 18th and 19th centuries describing how to dye Turkey red (a.k.a. Adrianople Red). The recipes turn to professionals as well as amateurs, and they picture the complexity of the method. Ingredients besides the madder colorant and alum were dung from sheep and rancid oil, which made the procedure both smelly and flammable. Our focus has been the Swedish market for Turkey Red at the time for the publications of the recipes, and the aim has been to analyze and interpret these from a cultural history and craft science point of view. According to the recipes the variations of how to achieve the desirable Turkey Red were many. Also, the preconceptions of the dyer and the environmental conditions seem to be of importance for the final result of the red color. Furthermore the Turkey Red spectrum reaches from pale pink to dark red. The term “Turkey Pink” has been identified, as well as the ability to control the final red as more greyish or yellowish when choosing recipe (the grey method/the yellow method). These are facts that complicate the ambition to theoretically describe the exact red color of Turkey Red. Hypothesized this could mean that Turkey Red is a method for achieving several variations of red. The article opens the door to Turkey Red in Sweden during the 18th and 19th centuries and reveals an intricate picture. From its origin in Turkey via France, to the dye house Levanten in Gothenburg, Sweden, and finally highlighted in the textile interiors of farmhouses in Hälsingland. Documentation has also been made of items representative for Turkey Red in the Sandberg Collection at The Museum of World Culture in Gothenburg. The art of achieving Turkey Red demanded then and demands today empirically experience.

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